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- ¡ÖEVEREST RECONNAISSANCE¡¡THE FIRST EXPEDITION OF 1921 (1991ǯÈÇ) Howard Bury/George Mallory ¡×(edited by Marian Keaney)
- ¸ø¼°Êó¹ð½ñ¡ÖMount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921¡¢Lieut-Cd. C.K. Howard-Bury¡×ºß¸Ë¤Ê¤·¡£
- ÂâĹ¡§Charles Howard-Bury¥Ï¥ï¡¼¥É¡¦¥Ð¥ê¡¼
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¡¡He was born in the same year as my father¡Ý1881. They must have both passed through Sandhurst as cadets at the same time. He served in my regiment, the King¡Çs Royal Rifle Corps. Like my father, he was taken prisoner in Flanders but, unlike him, Howard-Bury survived that war. Like me, he served as an Intelligence Officer, and shared with me a bent for foreign languages; as his part in obtaining the vital clearance for the expedition reveals, he was an able negotiator and something of a diplomat. Howard-Bury was a man of many parts.
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My eyes had often strayed, as we came up, to the rounded edge above the col and the final rocks below the North-east arête. If ever we had doubted whether the arête were accessible, it was impossible to doubt any longer. For a long way up those easy rock and snow slopes was neither danger nor difficulty.
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- ¸ø¼°Êó¹ð½ñ¡ÖTHE ASSAULT ON MOUNT EVEREST 1922 C.G.Bruce and other members¡×ºß¸Ë¤Ê¤·¡£
- ÂâĹ¡§ C.G.¥Ö¥ë¡¼¥¹
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- ¡ÖTHE FIGHT FOR EVEREST 1924 E.F.Norton and other menbers 1925¡×¸ø¼°Êó¹ð½ñ
- Æȸ졡Bis Zur Spitze Des Mount Everest, Die Besteigung
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I was near the end of my powers, and had for some time been going too slowly to hope to reach the summit. Whether the height I had reached was nearing the limit of human endurance without the artificial aid of oxygen, or whether my earlier exertions and hardships in month of May accounted for may exhaustion, I cannot, of course, say, but I incline to latter opinion; and I still believe that there is nothing in the atmospheric conditions even between 28,000 and 29,000 feet to prevent a fresh and fit party from reaching the top of Mount Everest without oxygen.
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- ¡ÖTHE EPIC OF MOUNT EVEREST Sir Francis Younghusband¡¡1926¡×
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¡ÖTHE STORY OF EVEREST Cp. John Noel¡¡1927¡×
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The author was an official photographer of the 1922 expedition, and a semi-official freelance 1924. This is a narrative of his attempt to reach Mt. Everest from the north in 1913 entering Tibet via the Chorten Nyimala. But Noel was stopped by Tibetans.
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¡ÖThe sun had not yet reached them, and they suffered much from cold during the first hour while traversing diagonally upwards towards the north-east ridge. Wager noticed that excessive panting resulted in rapid loss of body heat. Both felt the beginnings of frost-bite; and the moment the sun appeared, nearly an hour after they had left Campº, Wager sat down to remote his boots and rub his feet. Soon after this, about 60feet below the crest of the ridge and 250 yards east of the first step, Harris , who was leading, found the ice-axe about which there has been much controversially. It was lying free on smooth, brown ¡Èboiler-plate¡É slab, inclined steel head was stamped the name of maker¡ÝWillish, of Täsch, in the Zermatt valley.
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¡ÖRound Kangchenjunga¡×¡¡Douglas W. Freshfield ¡¡1903ǯ
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¡ÈThe name Kangchenjunga (however it may be spelled) is fairly familiar to the British public. A superb object from ¡Çthe Mail¡Ç of the most frequented health resort of Bengal, the great mountain is the most conspicuous of Himalayan peaks. Of late years a few officials and travelers have undertaken the pilgrimage to its southern base, which had been made from prehistoric times by the native dwellers on the lower spurs. But, owing partly to the cost and the difficulty of travel in Independent Sikkim, and partly to the obstacle presented by the Nepalese frontier, no European had, up to the end of the nineteenth century, gone round the mountain. Even Sir Joseph Hooker had not approached near enough to it to explore its glaciers, which had consequently never been described by any competent hand; while many of them had never been visited by Englishmen. In the sheets of official surveys they had been alternately ignored and caricatured. There was no map in existence which even pretended to show the snows and glaciers of the region on any system recognized in modern scientific surveys. ¡È
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¡ÈThis volume is a description of the first Tour of Kangchenjunga made by Europeans. Its object is not so much to offer another tale of mountaineering adventure as to provide an account of the scenery and glacial features of Kangchenjunga Group that may be serviceable to Alpine climbers and men of science, and not without interest for those who ¡Ælove the glories of the world¡Ç and count among them great mountains. ¡É
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¡ÖIm Kamph um den Himalaya¡× Paul Bauer 1931
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¡ÖThe Kanchenjunga Adventure¡× Francis S.Smythe 1930
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¡ÖUm den Kantch¡× Paul Bauer 1933
¡¡1931ǯ¡¢ºÆ¤Ó¥Ñ¥¦¥ë¡¦¥Ð¥¦¥¢¡¼¤¬Î¨¤¤¤ë¥É¥¤¥ÄÂ⤬ĩÀ路¤¿¡£Á°²óƱÍÍ¡¢ËÌÅìÎǤ˥¥ã¥ó¥×¤ò¿Ê¤á¤¿¤¬¡¢¡ÖÏɤÎÁã¡×¡ÊC7¡Ë ¤Î¾åÉô¤Ç³êÍî»ö¸Î¤¬È¯À¸¡¢Ââ°÷¤È¥·¥§¥ë¥Ñ¤¬Äƻष¤¿¡£ÂÎÀª¤òΩ¤Æľ¤·¤ÆºÆÅÙÄ©Àï¡¢9·î17Æü¡¢7360m¤Ëºî¤Ã¤¿C11¤«¤é½Ðȯ¤·¤¿2̾¤¬7750m¤Ë㤷¤¿¤¬¡¢ËÌÅìÎǤϤ³¤³¤«¤é70mÀÚ¤ìÍî¤Á¤Æ¤¤¤Æ¡¢¤·¤«¤âÂÐÌ̤μÐÌ̤ÏÀãÊø¤Î´í¸±¤¬¶Ë¤á¤Æ¹â¤«¤Ã¤¿¡£¤³¤Î¼ÐÌ̤Τ¦²óÏ©¤òȯ¸«¤¹¤ë¤³¤È¤¬¤Ç¤¤º¡¢ÃÇÇ°¤¹¤ë¤è¤ê¤Û¤«¤Î½Ñ¤¬¤Ê¤«¤Ã¤¿¡£
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¡ÊÏÂÌõ¡§¡Ö¥¦¥à¡¦¥Ç¥ó¡¦¥«¥ó¥Á¡×·Ä±þ»³³ÙÉôÍ»ÖÌõ/Åйâ²ñ/1936¡¡»³³Ù´Û¢½ñ¥¬¥¤¥É»²¾È¡Ë
¡¡1953ǯ¡¢¥¤¥®¥ê¥¹¤Î¥®¥ë¥â¥¢¡¦¥ë¥¤¥¹¤È¥¸¥ç¥ó¡¦¥±¥ó¥×¤Î2¿Í¤Ï¥¸¥ã¥³¡á¥®¥ã¥ë¥â¤Î¤È¤Ã¤¿¥ë¡¼¥È¤òºÆ¸¡Æ¤¤¹¤Ù¤¯¥ä¥ë¥óɹ²Ï¤ËÆþ¤Ã¤¿¡£Èà¤é¤Ï¥«¥ó¥ÁÆîÀ¾ÎǤÎ7300m¤Þ¤ÇÅФꡢÆîÀ¾Ì̤ÎɹÊɤò´Ñ»¡¤·¤¿¡£¤½¤³¤Ë¤Ï¥°¥ì¡¼¥È¡¦¥·¥§¥ë¥Õ¤È̾ÉÕ¤±¤¿Â礤ʥƥ饹¤¬Ç§¤á¤é¤ì¡¢¥°¥ì¡¼¥È¡¦¥·¥§¥ë¥Õ¤Ë㤹¤ë¤Þ¤Ç¤Î´í¸±¤Ê¥¢¥¤¥¹¡¦¥Õ¥©¡¼¥ë¤òÆÍÇˤǤ¤ì¤Ð¡¢Äº¾å¤Ë³¤¯¼çÎǤޤǤϺ¤Æñ¤Ç¤Ï¤Ê¤¤¤È»×¤ï¤ì¤¿¡£
¡ÖKangchenjunga ¡× John Tucker 1955
¡¡1954ǯ¡¢¥±¥ó¥×¤Ï¤µ¤é¤Ë5¿Í¤ÎÂâ°÷¤«¤é¤Ê¤ëÄ廡Ââ¤òÁÈ¿¥¤·¡¢ºÆ¤Ó¥ä¥ë¥óɹ²Ï¤ËÆþ¤ê¡¢ÆîÀ¾Ì̤ò´Ñ»¡¡¢¥°¥ì¡¼¥È¡¦¥·¥§¥ë¥Õ¤Þ¤Ç¤Ï㤷¤Ê¤«¤Ã¤¿¤¬¡¢ÅÐÚµ¥ë¡¼¥È¤òȯ¸«¤·¤Æµ¢¹ñ¤·¤¿¡£
¡ÖKangchenjunga-The Untrodden Peak¡× Charles Evans 1956
¡¡ 1955ǯ¡¢¥¤¥®¥ê¥¹¤Ï¥¨¥ô¥§¥ì¥¹¥È½éÅÐĺ¤Ç³èÌö¤·¤¿¥Á¥ã¡¼¥ë¥º¡¦¥¨¥ô¥¡¥ó¥¹¤òÂâĹ¤È¤¹¤ë£¹¿Í¤ÎÂâ°÷¤«¤é¤Ê¤ë¶¯ÎϤÊÅл³Ââ¤òÁ÷¤Ã¤¿¡£¥ä¥ë¥óɹ²Ï¤ØÆþ¤ê¡¢4·î26Æü¡¢¥¢¥¤¥¹¡¦¥Õ¥©¡¼¥ë¤Î¥í¥Ã¥¯¥Ð¥ó¥É´ðÉô¤ËBC¤ò·úÀߤ·¤¿¡£¥¢¥¤¥¹¡¦¥Õ¥©¡¼¥ë¤òÆÍÇˤ·¤Æ7160m¤ËC4¡¢7700m¤ËC5¤È½çÄ´¤Ë¥¥ã¥ó¥×¤ò±ä¤Ð¤·¤¿¤¬¡¢5·î19ÆüÌ뤫¤éÌÔ¿áÀã¤È¤Ê¤ê,¤½¤ì¤¬60»þ´Ö¤â³¤¤¤¿¡£Å·¸õ¤Î²óÉü¤·¤¿22Æü¡¢¥¢¥¿¥Ã¥¯Â⤬C5¤ØÆþ¤ê¡¢24Æü¤Ë¤Ï8000mÃÏÅÀ¤ËC6¤ò·úÀß¡¢¥¢¥¿¥Ã¥¯ÂÎÀ©¤ÏÀ°¤Ã¤¿¡£25ÆüÄ«8»þ15ʬ¡¢¥¸¥ç¡¼¥¸¡¦¥Ð¥ó¥É¤È¥¸¥ç¡¼¡¦¥Ö¥é¥¦¥ó¤¬C6¤ò½Ðȯ¡¢¥¦¥§¥¹¥È¡¦¥³¥ë¤ËÆͤ¾å¤²¤ë¥¬¥ê¡¼¤ò¿¿¤Ãľ¤°¤ËÅФꡢ¥³¥ë¤Îľ²¼¤Ç±¦¼ê¤ËÈ´¤±¡¢¸á¸å3»þ¶á¤¯Äº¾å¤Ë㤷¤¿¡£
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¡ÈIn the last few years, seven of the world¡Çs highest mountains have been climbed. The reasons are the accumulation of knowledge, both of climbing at great heights and of individual mountains, and the development of equipment. To-day, we climb in down suits and light wind proofs, wear well insulated boots, sleep on air-mattresses in warm bags, and use oxygen sets both by day and by night; and when we think of men of the early expeditions. in their tweed jackets and knee-length puttees, felt hats, scarves and shooting-boots, and remember that without oxygen sets they carried camps as high as our highest, and climbed to a height about equal to that of Kangchenjunga, we are filled with respect.
It is the use of oxygen which, above all, has made the difference. This has made it possible to live high, yet continue to climb with vigor; men are less dependent now on their individual capacity to do with little oxygen; speed of climbing is increased, so that camps be set farther apart and farther from the summit; Sherpas use oxygen to climb to the highest camps. It was use of oxygen that made Everest possible; it played its part in Jean Franco¡Çs wonderful achievement on Makalu, when nine members of his expedition reached the summit; and on Kangchenjunga it made the final stages swifter and more sure.¡É
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1895ǯ¡¡Albert Frederick Mummery
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1932ǯ¡¡ÆÈÊÆ¡¡ÂâĹWilly Merkl
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1934ǯ¡¡ÆÈÔÔ¡¡ÂâĹWilly Merkl
- Deutsche am Nanga Parbat: Fritz Bechtold 1935
- Nanga Parbat Adventure, A Himalaya Expedition 1935:translated by H.E.Tyndal
- Ͻñ¡§°¿¤ëÅÐÚµ²È¤ÎÀ¸³¶: Ĺ°æ/¾¾ËÜÌõ¡¡¾¼Ï´©¹Ô²ñ1943ǯ
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¡¡¥á¥ë¥¯¥ë¤Ï¿·¤¿¤ËÃÂÀ¸¤·¤¿¥Ê¥ÁÀ¯¸¢¤Î²¸·Ã¤òºÇÂç¸Â¤Ë¼õ¤±¡¢µ¬ÌϤòÂ礤¯¤·¤¿¤è¤ê¶¯ÎϤʥÁ¡¼¥à¤òΨ¤¤¤Æ¥Ê¥ó¥¬¤ØÌá¤Ã¤Æ¤¤¿¡£¤³¤ÎÂâ¤Ï·Ð¸³Ë¤«¤ÊÂçÀª¤Î¥·¥§¥ë¥Ñ¤«¤é»Ù±ç¤ò¼õ¤±¤ÆÁ°²ó¤è¤ê¤â¤µ¤é¤Ë¾å¤Ø¤ÈÅФꡢ7·î6Æü¤Ë¤ÏÀ踯Â⤬¥¸¥ë¥Ð¡¼¥¶¥Ã¥Æ¥ë¤ÎÆñ´Ø¤òÆÍÇˤ·¤Æɸ¹â7480m¤ËÂè8¥¥ã¥ó¥×¤ò·úÀߤ·¤¿¡£¤³¤³¤«¤éĺ¾å¤Þ¤Ç¤Ï1Æü¤Ç±ýÉü¤Ç¤¤½¤¦¤À¤ÈÂâ°÷¤Î¤À¤ì¤â¤¬»×¤Ã¤¿¡£¤·¤«¤·¡¢Íâ7Æṳ̈ÌÀ¤«¤éÌÔÎõ¤Ê˽É÷À㤬½±¤Ã¤¿¡£Íâ8Æü¤â»ß¤àµ¤ÇۤϤʤ¯¡¢¥á¥ë¥¯¥ë¤Ï¤È¤ê¤¢¤¨¤º¤¤¤Ã¤¿¤óBC¤ØűÂà¤ò·è°Õ¤¹¤ë¡£
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¡ÈWelzenbach Sahib died during the night of the 12th-13th. We left the dead Welzenbach Sahib lying in the tent, and went down towards Camp 4 that morning, Merkl painfully supported on two ice-axes. But as we could not manage to overcome the rise to the ¡ÆMoor¡Çs Head¡Ç, we constructed an ice-cave on the flat saddle. Bara Sahib and Gay-Lay slept together on a rubber groundsheet which we had brought along, and under one common porter¡Çs blanket. I my self had a blanket also, but no groundsheet. On the morning 14th, I went outside the cave and called loudly for help. As there was nobody visible at Camp4, I supposed to Merkl that I should go down. He agreed. When I set out Merkl and Gay-Lay were so weak that they could get no further than two or three yards from the cave.¡É ¡ÊNanga Parbat Adventure¡Ë
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1937ǯ¡¡¥É¥¤¥Ä¡¡ÂâĹKarl Wien
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¡¡3ǯ¸å¤Ë¤Ï¤µ¤é¤ËÄˤޤ·¤¤Èá·à¤¬µ¯¤¤ë¡£ºÆ¤Ó¥Ê¥ó¥¬¤ËÄ©¤ó¤À¥É¥¤¥ÄÂâ¤Ï¡¢¥é¥¥ª¥È¥Ô¡¼¥¯¤«¤é¤ÎÂçÀãÊø¤Ë¤è¤Ã¤ÆÂè4¥¥ã¥ó¥×¤Ë¿²¤Æ¤¤¤¿16¿Í¤Î¥á¥ó¥Ð¡¼¡ÊÂâ°÷7̾¡¢¥·¥§¥ë¥Ñ9̾¡Ë¤òË´¤¯¤·¤¿¤Î¤Ç¤¢¤ë¡£¤³¤ÎÃΤ餻¤ò¼õ¤±¤Æ¥Ñ¥¦¥ë¡¦¥Ð¥¦¥¢¡¼¤È¥Ù¥Ò¥È¡¼¥ë¥È¤¬µß±ç¤Ë¸þ¤«¤Ã¤¿¤¬¡¢¤¢¤Þ¤ê¤Î»´¾õ¤Ë¤Ê¤¹¤¹¤Ù¤¬¤Ê¤«¤Ã¤¿¡£
1938ǯ¡¡¥É¥¤¥Ä¡¡ÂâĹPaul Bauer
- Ͻñ¡§¥Ê¥ó¥¬¡¦¥Ñ¥ë¥Ð¥Ã¥ÈÅÐÚµ»Ë¡§²£ÀîʸͺÌõ¡¡¤¢¤«¤Í½ñ˼1969ǯ ¥Ò¥Þ¥é¥ä̾ÃøÁ´½¸
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1939ǯ¡¡¥É¥¤¥Ä¡¡ÂâĹPeter Aufschnaider
- Seven Years in Tibet: Heinrich Harrer 1952
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¡ÉI was on the highest point of that mountain, the Summit of Nanga Parbat, 26,620feet above sea-level-----
Nothing went up any further, anywhere. There was a small snow plateau, a couple of mounds, and everything fell away on all sides from it. It was seven o¡Çclock. There I was on that spot, the target of may dreams, and I was the first human being since Creation¡Çs day to get there. But I felt no wave of overmastering joy, no wish to shout aloud, no sense of victorious exaltation; I had not the slightest realistion of the significance of that moment. I was absolutely all in. Utterly worn out, I felt on the snow and stuck my ice-axe upright in the hard-beaten snow, just as if it were something I had practiced over and over again. I had been on the way for seventeen hours on end and every step had become a battle, an indescrible effort of will-power. I was only thankful not to have to keep on looking upwards with frightful question, ¡ÈWould I get there?¡É always touring may mind.¡É¡ÊNanga Parbat Pilgrimage¡Ë