中国雲南省玉龍納西族自治県黎明傈僳族郷クライミングツアー(フリークライミング／アジア)日程:2025-04-24〜2025-05-06メンバー: gt2010コースタイム：写真：Back to the Primitive 8pBack to the PrimitiveScarface ?-Gore Linkupクライマーのワンコ 行動食はしまっておいたほうがよいPrimitive NorthWind of the Valley昼飯ウルシあったClamdigger宿犬多しパオズ(Ding Dongの息子)食堂Back to the PrimitiveClamdiggerPainted WallDing Dong's Crack蜂の巣と木ばしごアプローチ猫も多いBack to the PrimitiveBack to the Primitive家畜小屋黎明村千亀山Japanese Cowboyやぎ放牧で岩場まで来ることもあるBack to the PrimitivePrimitiveエリア千亀山Dinner WallFaraway corner巨大蜂の巣Primitiveエリア野菜を選んで注文する蜂の巣を採るための伝統的ラダーWind of the ValleyDinner Wall CaveBack to the Primitiveパオズ(Ding Dongの息子)Back to the PrimitiveメニューアプローチBack to the PrimitiveJapanese CowboyBack to the PrimitiveDinner WallPillars昆明は恐竜の産地お墓Clamdigger洞窟探検黎明村Ding Dong's Crack感想：麗江市玉龍ナシ族自治県黎明村へのクライミングツアー。ナシ族は母系社会であり、伝統衣装は「キングダム」の登場人物羌瘣の衣装とよく似ている。黎明村は標高2200m付近の山奥にあり、少数部族であるナシ族、イ族、モソ族、リス族、プミ族などが生活している。もちろん漢族も。ミャンマー、タイ、インド、チベットの系統とも関わりが深く、顔立ちが様々でとても興味深い。こんな山奥であっても日本よりデジタル化が遥かに進んでいる中国なので支払いは全てwechatpayとAlipayで完結した。あとはGoogle翻訳、wechatが使えれば大抵のことは解決する。岩質は砂岩でとても質が良い。インディアンクリークよりもクラックのサイズは変化が多く、フェイスの要素も多い。また、麗江市側に戻ると石灰岩スポートのエリアもある(Shigu)。岩場情報はMountain Project、Michael Dobieのトポで得られる。今回雨で行けなかったThe Guardianはアプローチに迷いやすいため、ローカルクライマーと一緒に行った方が無難。宿の人が送迎してくれる。ローカルクライマーは親切で色々と助けになってくれる。村での滞在も人情豊かで良いリフレッシュになった。この旅では加工食品をなるべく避けて食事ができたので最後まで体調が良く、初めて海外旅行で体重が増えた。やはり米が食べられるのはありがたい。【登った主なルート】Wind of the Valley 5.10+★★★★ 30mの超気持ちいいルート。背後の展望がすごい。全天候型。Japanese Cowboy 5.12+★★★★ 30mハングしたコーナーワイド〜 だんだん細くなり最後に繊細な核心が待っている。登れなかった。Yujiがオンサイトしたからこのルート名らしい。The Great Owl 5.9★★★★ 景色がすごい。朝イチで登りたい。The Reckoning 5.12- ★★★★ 指の太い人は結構辛いかも。とても面白い。R.P. Extension 5.12+はそんなに難しくないらしい。Scarface ?-Gore linkup 5.11-★★★★ 30mとても綺麗なライン。ハング越えが楽しい。OS.The Clamdigger 5.11- ★★★★ 30mハマグリ形状にパックリカチ割れたワイド。アップで登ったら汗だくになった。OS.Farawaycorner 5.11-★★★★ 30m綺麗なフィンガーコーナー〜山っぽいクライミングでフレークの頂上へ。気持ちいい。OS.Funky Dann 5.12b ★★★★ 31m黎明のベスト5.12を挙げるなら3本には入るであろうルート。プロテクションワーク、ムーブ、最後の抜けまでとても質が高い。回収TRで1回触ったのみ。#0.3サイズを7個使う。Ding Dong's Crack 5.12- ★★★★ 30m村の正面に聳え立つDinner Wallの看板ルート。R.P.中間にテラスがあり下部と上部に分かれている。オフフィンガーのジャミングを久しぶりにやってタメになった。終了点から巨大な蜂の巣を観察できる。伝統工芸的な木の梯子は今でも使われているのだろうか。Back to the Primitive 5.11 ★★★★ 200m、8pチームOS. 5.10〜5.11のピッチが連続する。ハング越え、Splitter hand crack、高度感のあるトラバース、締めは亀の甲羅を登るようにスラブを駆け上がる(Turtles in Space)。ロケーションが最高でとにかく気持ちいい。岩壁頂上から小1時間で遊歩道に出る。ついでに巨大洞窟を見に行った。2-3p、6−7pはリンク可能。Another World 5.12+ ★★★★ 30mCaveエリア最難Honeycomb Dome13+のアプローチルートでもある。ビレイ点からクライムダウン&トラバースしてクラックを辿る。とにかく被っている。パワー&ストレングス。シンハンド核心で息が抜けない。ツアー最終日に1リード、1TR。TRだとほぼノーテンで行ける感じだった。次回是非登りたい。【移動】航空券：日本〜昆明便が往復5〜6万円台。麗江空港便は高め。昆明空港から昆明駅：タクシーで1400〜2000円程度。30分。バスもある。昆明駅〜麗江駅：（往路）寝台列車 4400円、10h (復路)快速急行4100円、4h麗江駅〜黎明村：（往路）タクシー 8000円、2.5h (復路)バス 600円、約3h【食事】朝：屋台で包子(1個1元、約20円) 8時半までには行かないと店終いする。昼：バナナ、菓子。菓子類は駄菓子屋で色々買える(安い)。果物は10日に一度くらい開かれるバザールで色々買える。バナナとオレンジ、小さいシャインマスカットみたいなのが美味しかった。果物は行きの途中の村で仕入れると楽。夕：食堂が5店くらいある。大皿3品頼んで75元(1500円)くらい。米は食べ放題。野菜が新鮮で美味しい。この地域は農作物、畜産(豚、牛、鳥)が豊か【宿】5月の労働節と重なると予約が早く埋まる。クライマー向けの宿は3つくらいある。電気ポット、ドライヤー、スマートテレビ、シャワートイレ備付。洗濯機利用可。【その他】包子を売ってるおじさんは裁縫が上手で服の破れほつれは数百円で縫ってくれる。そして毎晩ダンスを練習しているので一緒に踊ろう。コーヒーは売ってないので持参した方が良い。ECサイトで手配もできるが宿まで届けてくれるかどうかはサービスによって異なる。【気候】19:30まではヘッデンなしで登れる。だいたい21時までに下山すれば飯が食える。未明〜朝は曇りか小雨、午後晴れのパターンが多かった。Alipay内アプリの天気予報を使っていたが、この時期は不安定でちょっとした風向きでコロコロ変わる。全天候型岩場があるので雨が降っても登れないことはない。防寒はナノエアジャケット一枚で十分だった。【土産】雲南珈琲は色々種類があって美味しい。麗江で買うと結構高い。古城内の景観保護区は物価が高い。黎明クライミングアソシエーションでTシャツ150元くらい。
ブロックはまあまあ固くて重かったけど、わりとしっかりしたものが切れたので、つい作ってしまったイグルー。The blocks were fairly solid and heavy, but they cut well and held together nicely, so I ended up building the igloo almost without thinking
翌朝の崩落あと。この程度に作っておいてタープを被せておけばよかったです。The collapsed roof the next morning. I should’ve just left it at this level and covered it with a tarp
Warm Weather and a Collapsing Ceiling
This happened the day after my last outing. I skied down from Mt. Asahi on the northern ridge of Mt. Shirouma, descending a 1,000-meter vertical drop on the northeast-facing gully without a break in just 47 minutes. It was a lot of fun. It looked like no one had skied there for about a week. I built an igloo at the foot of the Shirakōchizawa Bridge. There was plenty of snow, but at 1,300 meters elevation, it was warmer than the previous day.
In conditions like this, it’s better to just build walls around you and use a tarp as the ceiling. When it’s warm, the roof will melt and collapse anyway. But since I managed to cut a lot of good snow blocks, I carelessly went ahead and built a roof. I should’ve known better.
Even during cooking, drops of water started dripping from the ceiling blocks above the gasoline stove. Even after I turned off the stove and spread out my sleeping bag, the dripping didn’t stop. I fell asleep anyway, but around 9 p.m., one of the ceiling blocks fell onto my waist. I moved it aside and went back to sleep, but then drips started falling all over the place, soaking my bedding. Even though the temperature wasn’t that low and there was no wind, I was cold and couldn’t sleep well. Around 3:30 a.m., a large part of the roof collapsed, waking me up.
Really, once drips start falling and don’t stop even after you turn off the stove, it’s probably best to just take the roof down. No matter how many years you’ve done this, when you’re tired, it’s easy to get lazy and make bad decisions.
What’s fascinating about staying in an igloo is how the way you use it gradually changes with the progression of the season.
掘り下げ1段で十分ブロックが取れたので壁2段積んだ上は、もうスキーを載せて塞ぎ始める I got plenty of blocks with just one layer of digging, so after stacking up two layers for the wall, I went ahead and started capping it with my skis
風上を壁にできて吹き込みは無かったが、張りの不十分な張り綱が風でバタバタして猛烈にうるさかった The wall on the windward side kept the draft out just fine, but the guy lines weren’t tight enough, and they flapped like crazy in the wind?it was insanely noisy
やっぱりイグルーの強みは展望の良いところで泊まれること あんなうるさい風、テントだったら発狂クラスだ What I love about igloos is that you can sleep in places with killer views. That wind was so loud?if I’d been in a tent, I seriously would’ve lost my mind.
Failed Igloo Series in the Lingering Snow Season ? Flapping Tarp in the Wind
Hakuba in the Snowmelt Season ? Backcountry Heaven
I headed out to the northern part of the Hakuba range during the first half of Golden Week. Even as a seasoned igloo builder?Igluski style?I ended up getting barely any sleep thanks to a failed igloo. I tend to charge ahead with too much confidence, always pushing the limits, so… yeah, learn from my mistakes!
On the ropeway up from Tsugaike, someone suddenly called out, “Sensei!” It was BC-san, who came to my igloo workshop two years ago. They were planning to ski down toward Renge Onsen and explore the area today. I was super happy to hear they’ve been trying out igloos on their own since then!
From the Tsugaike marshland, I climbed up to Funakoshi-no-Kashira. There was a nice drift of snow on the leeward side of Point 2719, just southwest of Mt. Kogarasu, so I decided to build there. Turns out the area around Mikuni-sakai is famous for being super windy. Looking back, if I’d walked another 30 minutes, I probably could’ve found a calmer spot… But the ridge ahead looked pretty rocky, and the snow here looked decent, so I went for it.
Fast Roof Build with Skis
It was a gentle slope, so I started cutting blocks upward along the slope. At the bottom, the snow was only about 30 cm deep, but as I dug higher, it naturally turned into a 1-meter wall? a solid windbreak on the upwind side. That part was great, but honestly, I was exhausted. I only managed one row of blocks at the base and couldn’t bring myself to do a second. So yeah, the ceiling was a bit low… but I slapped on my skis and forced the roof blocks into place?same quick trick I used last time.
Tarp On Top = No Drafts, But So Noisy
I didn’t feel like stuffing all the gaps with snow, so I just threw a tarp over the top, anchoring the four corners with an ice axe and crampons. On the windward side, I piled snow blocks on the tarp edge to keep it down. Crawled in early, hoping for some rest…
But nope. The wind was crazy, and the tarp kept flapping loudly all night long. One thing I love about igloos is how peaceful they are compared to tents. But even with snow’s soundproofing, it was still loud. I thought I’d tightened the guy lines well, but in the morning, I found the leeward side had ripped? I hadn’t pulled it tight enough.
With wind like that, I should’ve pitched the tarp (or even a bivy) inside the igloo instead of outside, using the suction effect from the wind pressure to keep it in place. (Like I wrote about in a previous post.) But man, I was too wiped out to think straight.
Still, the view made it all worth it. I got to watch the Hakuba peaks glowing in the morning sun, right through my little igloo window.
A Long-Awaited Book on the Hidaka Mountains Has Been Published
Back in the 1970s and 80s, there were large-format photo collections of the Hidaka Mountains, some of which even included aerial photography. I used to study those photographs intently every day for winter traverse terrain research. Given that the region has no established hiking trails, the only references we had were either crumpled, handwritten trip reports left in the clubroom or the club bulletins, which were at least printed and easier to read.
Even now, after all these years, I’m happy to see that the innermost parts of the Hidaka range remain untouched and pristine. The book also documents the background of the ill-fated plan for a Hidaka crossing road, which was eventually abandoned.
In truth, it’s impossible to create the kind of hiking guide that most people expect for a place like the deep Hidaka?so remote that even experienced mountaineers can’t easily access it. I can’t recall another chance like this when such a comprehensive book on the Hidaka Mountains has been published.
I was fortunate enough to contribute to this special volume.
As a narrative of Hidaka’s story, it includes graphic-rich presentations of early expedition accounts from pioneers of the Hokkaido University Alpine Club’s formative years (Nobuyuki Sudo, Shugoro Ito, Osamu Aikawa), reports on accidents in Koikaku-sawa and Ju-no-sawa, the bear attack involving Fukuoka University, and the journeys of painter Chokkou Sakamoto.
Three authors?Akio Koizumi, Satoru Yoneyama, and Norihiko Matsubara?wrote beautifully about the profound appeal of the Hidaka Mountains in both winter and summer. It also includes detailed descriptions of the nearly superhuman winter long-distance traverses carried out by young alumni in the 21st century, along with the origins and development of the igloo technique, which has become a hallmark of the Hokkaido University Alpine Club.
In 1990, while simultaneously working on my graduation thesis, I hand-drew a bird’s-eye map of the Hidaka range as a large fold-out supplement to the 13th issue of the club’s bulletin. I’m delighted that this piece has been republished here, now beautifully colored 35 years later. As I gaze upon it, memories come flooding back?memories of walking along each of those drawn lines with great care and affection.
The book also includes richly illustrated articles on geology, topography, and the flora of Mt. Apoi. There are fascinating explorations of two ancient mountain routes in the southern Hidaka region. Altogether, it’s a multifaceted book themed around “The Hidaka Mountains and People.”
On the cover and at the beginning of the book are brand-new photographs by Kenji Ito, an alumnus of the alpine ski team. Look closely?you might spot a bear walking across a snowfield in one of them.
It’s a large-format book, yet light in weight and pleasing to the touch. Available not only at bookstores but also on Amazon. Release date: April 27.
Published by Kyodo Bunka-sha First Edition: May 15, 2025 Editor and Author: Shinichi Kurokawa Price: 2,700 yen + tax
70 Igloo-Themed Trip Reports on Yamareco So Far This Season
A search for mountain trip reports on Yamareco with the word “イグルー” (igloo) in the title yielded a surprising number?70 entries already this season. If we include those who didn’t put it in the title, there are far too many to count. Clearly, igloo-building has become much more common among winter mountaineers.
Documenting Skill Progression Through Repeated Practice
Some users have compiled “summary articles” using photos to document their own igloo-building journey?starting from early attempts when they struggled to build a roof, to gradually improving over multiple tries. These are very interesting to read. One person wrote that they kept at it not because they had to, but because it was simply fun to build. I couldn’t agree more.
Although these two users never attended any official workshops, it’s clear from their photos that their skills have significantly improved:
Skills Gained Through Personal Trial and Error Are the Ones That Stick
At igloo-building workshops, I often demonstrate how to build one in 40 minutes. But that’s really just to show that “yes, it is possible to make one.” Ultimately, the skills that truly stick are the ones you gain by trying yourself, failing, thinking through the problem, and discovering your own tricks that make it work. That feeling of success is the most important part of learning.
Even if you’re taught every little step in advance, it often doesn’t stick, and it tends to lead to a passive, “waiting for instructions” mindset. The best approach is to encourage people to think and experiment on their own.
I recently read a book by Makoto Shinohara that echoed this same idea. Though I probably wouldn’t have picked it up based on the title alone, I found his Twitter commentary on energy policy and agricultural self-sufficiency during these times of change fascinating. His book provided great insights into how people learn?and this is exactly how learning works.
Igloo-Building Has Huge Potential for Personal Growth
Unlike snow caves, which anyone can dig, igloo-building tends to show a lot of individual variation. That’s what makes it so enjoyable?there’s plenty of room for creativity and personal growth, making it incredibly rewarding. It’s an activity full of charm.
Mid-Season Summary of My Own Igloo Activities
So far this season, I’ve held 10 workshops:
2 at the Matsumoto City Mountain Forum
2 with university mountaineering clubs
3 with mountaineering associations
3 with friends or small groups
In addition, I’ve spent 6 nights in igloos on my own mountain trips. I still have two long expeditions planned for the holiday period, and I expect to spend 4 or 5 more nights in igloos (I’ve been putting it off, but maybe I’ll finally head out tomorrow). This winter, I even had the intense experience of building igloos in the worst storm conditions I’ve ever faced, adding to my experience all the more.
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久しぶりの、日高山脈本が出版されました
